Sunday, February 8, 2009

Baglan Trek : Mangi-Tungi, Mulher-Mora, Salher

Region : Baglan Range,Nashik Region, Maharashtra
Trek Date : 24th-25th-26th Jan'09

Have been looking forward to doing a trek in the Baglan range of Maharashtra since 2008 however, things never fell in place. After a successful Velliangiri trek in Nov’08, it was time to do a cross country trek this Jan’09. Ajay from Bhramanti was planning a trek to Mangi-Tungi and Salher in Baglan range around 24-26th Jan’09. So I & Dharmesh decided to join him for the trek. We were 4 in all – Ajay, Shilpa, Dinesh & Dharmesh. The itenary was fixed and we set off for our destination leaving Mumbai on 23rd night 11pm by Ajay’s car. Ajay drove the entire route : Mumbai – Nasik – Satana – Tahirabad – Mangi Tungi.. We reached Bhilwadi (the base village) for Mangi Tungi at around 7am. Mangi-Tungi is a part of the Baglan – Selbari range (Nhavi, Tambolya, Mangi & Tungi).
Mangi-Tungi (Mangi – 4443ft/1354m) & Tungi – (4366ft/1331m)
About Mangi-Tungi is a prominent twin-pinnacled peak with plateau in between, located near Tahrabad about 125 km from Nashik. Mangi, 4,343 ft (1,324 m) high above sea level, is the western pinnacle and Tungi, 4,366 ft (1,331 m) high, the eastern.There are numerous temples and is considered sacred by boths and. It enshrines images of Jain aras in several postures including and kayotsarga. Sometimes, it is described as Siddha Kshetra, meaning a gateway to the state of enlightenment. Around 4,500 steps lead to the foot of the peak, which is enriched with several monuments of historical and religious prominence. A grand fair is held here annually during Kartik (September-October) where Hindus and Jains visit in large numbers to witness the grand rath yatra.
Mangi Giri: There are seven old temples on this hill and so many images of feet of saints are installed here. A pond is here named Krishna Kund, it’s a witness of the last days of Lord Krishna. His elder brother Balram also practices here for presence and achieved fifth heaven. Here is a Cave named Balbhadra Cave where idols of Balram and many others are installed. Tungi Giri: There are five temples on it. There are two caves are named on Bhagwan Chandraprabhu, the 8th Teerthankar and other is Ram Chandra Cave. Ancient idols of Hanuman, Gava, Gavaksha, Neel etc. are here. In one cave there is an idol of Ram’s chief of army Kritantvakra in the stage of ascetic saint. On the path between Mangi & Tungi Hills to cave down, here are two Caves of Shuddha & Buddha Munies (ascetic saints), a Colossus of Bhagwan Munisuvrat Nath is there in Padmasana (a posture with cross legged seating). Lord Bahubali and other’s idols are also there. Many idols on both the hills are carved on the rocks. Beautiful attractive images of Yaksha & Yakshini (God & Goddess attending to Teerthankaras) and Indra (The king of heaven) are also carved here.


After refreshing at the shrine complex in Bhilwadi, we proceeded to climb Mangi-Tungi. There’s a Jeep track leading from behind the village upto Mangi Tungi (1/2 km). We walked down the path and started our climb at around 9am. The hill looks gigantic with the two towering pinnacles. Proper steps leads up to the pinnacles. As there’s no vegetation on the mountain, it was pretty hot during the climb. We reached the top, where there’s a huge gate. Left route leads to Mangi and the right goes to Tungi. We took the left and proceeded to Mangi first. From the gate, we climb further on traversing the hill and reach the top of the hill / base of the Mangi pinnacle. We circumvent the pinnacle where one can find proper well constructed caves housing statues of Mahavir and other Jain deities. One can view the hills of Tambolya & Nhavi (Ratangad) fort in a distance. Further-on one can see the range of Muher, Hargad & Salher-Salota. We return back to the gate and proceed straight to Tungi. As we traverse along the hill (below Mangi), we reach a prominent long ridge leading all the way to the Tungi pinnacle base. Enroute on the ridge we pass an old broken marble temple and reach a newly constructed small house (currently locked) which serves as a mediation centre. A flight of steps from here takes us up to the Tungi pinnacle base. The steps are so beautiful and gives us a feel of climbing up into the sky. Again we circumvent the Tungi pinnacle where too we find a lot of Jain temples constructed during medivial times. The views from Mangi-Tungi are simply awesome and mesmerizing…the dark brown landscape with various hills and forts jutting out on one side and miles-miles of plains on the other. We return back to the common gate and descend the mountain reaching the base ashram by 1pm. After a much relishing satvik jain lunch at the Ashram, we drive down to Mulher village for our next trek – Mulher & Mora.

Mulher Fort – 4284ft/1306m
About Mulher - The Rathod dynasty of Bagul ancestry reigned Baglan between 1310 and 1638. Mulher fort was their capital. The Mughals then gained control of Baglan. For the Surat forays of Jan 1664 & Oct 1670, Shivaji Maharaj had followed the route passing through Baglan to reach Surat. On the first occasion, the entire region from Pune to Surat was under the command of the Mughals while on the second occasion, Baglan was mainly under their control. The Mughals chased Shivaji Raje on his return journey but they were defeated in the Kanchana Pass. Soon after this, Shivaji began a campaign in this region. In Jan 1671 the first assault brought the Salher fort under the Maratha rule. They then attacked Mulher fort but the Mughal Killedar repulsed the attack. However, the Marathas captured the Chaulher fort. In Oct 1671, the Mughals laid seige to Salher fort. But Shivaji despatched Moropant and Prataprao to break down the seige. They not only lifted the siege of Salher, but also attacked Mulher and captured it in Feb 1672. This feat resulted in the assimiliation of the entire Baglan region into Swarajya.

We reached Mulher village after a 45mins drive from Bhilwadi. Mulher village has some ancient wood ornated houses which still gives you the 16th-17th century feel. Passing thru the village we proceed to a point where the road diverts to the left and a straight dirt track leads to the Mulher fort base. We pass thru fields and start climbing the 1st ridge. Moving straight up the rocks we reach semi-dense cacti vegetation and climb zig-zig thru a route amidst the vegetation. Enroute we pass thru 3 broken gates – Fortifications (entrances) finally reaching the machi area. The machi section is huge. First we reach Ganesh Temple which has a lake besides it. About 15 people can be accomadated here. The Temple is encrusted with beautiful sculptures and carved ceiling. A stone pillar stands in the centre of the lake. Hargad fort can be seen in the backdrop of the lake. The water here is not potable. A route on the left leads to Someshwar Temple which has been refurbished. The routes here are a bit confusing due to the dense vegetation on the Machi. Behind the Ganesh Temple a path thru the thick undergrowth leads one to Ram Laxman Temple and adjacent to it the broken palatial ruins (Rajwada). We settle at the Ganesh Temple to spend the night. After a sumptous dinner (soup, soya kichdi, salad & papad) we call it off at around 9pm.

Early next morning at 7.30am, me and Dharmesh start our advent to Mulher fort. Just after the lake – we take the route moving right into the bushes. After about 5 minutes we reach a huge rock patch. Here we find 2 huge wate tanks that carry potable water. The bigger tank is called ‘Hatti Taki” and the smaller one on the left is “Moti Taki”. Steadily climbing further on past the water tanks we reach the a flight of broken steps. These broken steps lead us to the column between the fort. At this point one finds a Maruti Statue smeared in vermillion embedded in the rock. Route on the right traversing the fort would lead to a coloumn between Mulher and Hargad from where one can reach Hargad Fort. As we did not have much time to do so. We take a left and pass thru the several entrances. Just before the entrance there are 2 caves and some water cisterns next to the caves.

As we climb up the entrance we reach the fort top or Ballekilla plateau which is actually the mid-point of the fort. We pas thru a water tank on the right and reach remanants of broken palace. Just a standing gate is visible. Moving further on towards we reach a small temple of Bhadangnath entwined under a huge tree. A copper mask of the deity is installed inside the temple. After paying obeisance here, we move thru the grasslands to the edge of the plateau from where we can get a clear view of Mora Fort. To reach Mora from here we reach a chor darwaza just below the plateau edge. After coming out of the darwaza one reaches the coloumn between Mulher and Mora. The coloumn is huge and is fortified on both sides. There is a huge water tank here. A flight of steps carved out of the rock on Mora leads us to the Mora entrance.

After crossing the gate, we find 2 tanks. The fort is compact and naturally defended by perpendicular precipices. We climb further on thru the rocky steps passing thru the final entrance reaching the Balekilla of the fort. The top is quite small with a few broken fortifications. The view from top is superb – Nhavi, Tambolya, Mangi & Tungi can be seen from here. After a short stroll we return back to the Mulher-Mora column and descend the fort from this route instead of the ascend route which we took. The route is a bit slippery so one needs to be careful while descending. We reach the Someshwar temple in half hour and moving further on reach Ganesh Temple by 10am. After packing our bags we descend Mulher and reach the base village by 12noon. After a quick lunch at Mulher Village we proceed to Vagambe Village (17kms) for our next climb – Salher. We reach Vagambe Village around 1pm. The mighty forts of Salher & Salota can be seen just behind the village in a distance.

Salher Fort – 5140ft/1567m
About Salher Fort – Salher is the highest fort in Maharashtra and the second highest peak in Maharashtra after Kalsubai. In the annals of history, the references of Salher and Mulher run parallel to each other. In Jan 1671 the first assault brought the Salher fort under the Maratha rule. They then attacked Mulher fort but the Mughal Killedar repulsed the attack. However, the Marathas captured the Chaulher fort. In Oct 1671, the Mughals laid seige to Salher fort. But Shivaji despatched Moropant and Prataprao to break down the seige. They not only lifted the siege of Salher, but also attacked Mulher and captured it in Feb 1672. This feat resulted in the assimiliation of the entire Baglan region into Swarajya. Salher can be approached from 3 routes. Vagambe Village, Maldar Village and Salherwadi.

We start our trek around 1.15pm from Vagambe. Crossing the fields behind the village we climb the first ridge where we reach a huge mango tree. After taking rest, we proceed further traversing this small hill again climbing to reach on top of the hill. The weather is extremely hot. Nevertheless, we tiringly climb steadily. The hill converges into a huge barren ridge which connects the Salota fort. We reach a rocky portion of the ridge where we traverse from the left and move towards the base of Salota from were we climb to the right and reach the top of the ridge. Cutting across diagonally we taverse the Salota fort (keeping the fort to the left). There is a huge valley on the right. After about 15mins we reach a common coloumn between Salota and Salher. A route from here goes to Maldar village which falls on the other side of the twin forts. We decide to explore Salota first. Just after the coloumn a small track traverses on the left of Salota. We take this path keeping the fort walls to the left. Enroute we can see a rocky staircase on the Salota walls. However, we were unable to find the route to reach the staircase. So leaving the Salota climb for next time, we return back to the coloumn. From the coloumn we proceeded straight keeping the Salher wall to the left. Two small rock patches need to be crossed here with utmost care. The route moves on further till you reach a flight of broken steps. We take a right here, and climbing these steps reach the 1st entrance of the fort. The fortifications are in a crumbled state here. Soon after the gate, we take a U-turn and climb the huge set of steps moving upward on the hill. Passing thru the several gates we reach a mid point on the fort. From here we traversed the entire fort (keeping the fort walls on the left), passing thru several caves, again reaching a set of steps which lead us thru the final entrance. Crossing the entrance we reach a huge plateau. One can see the Ballekilla hillock here. Moving right further on we reach an artifical lake called Gangasagar. The water is mossy green in appearance and not potable. A stone pillar stands at the center of the lake. Adjoining the courtyard, just above the lake are 3 huge caves which offer good accomadation for huge groups. A temple dedicated to Renukamata is set next to the lake.

From behind the caves, we climb zig-zig and reach the Balekilla which is again set on a huge plateau. At one end is a small hillock with Lord Parshuram’s temple on it. The sunset and sunrise views from the temple are mesmerizing. This place is a vantage point and gives us clear views of the Satmala range (Dodap & Ikhara) and the Selbari Range forts of Nhavi, Mulher, Hargad, Mangi-Tungi. One can see miles-n-miles of land from this point. After sunset we return back to the caves. After a quick dinner (maggi) we retired for the day at around 9pm. Next morning, we packed our sacks and started our descent around 7.30pm. We descended on a quicker pace reaching Vagambe village at around 9.30pm. Ajay and Shilpa were waiting for us there. For our return to Mumbai we decided to take a different route this time viz. through Gujarat since we were very close to the border. Therefore we descended the ghat after the border & proceeded to Ahwa, crossing over the Dang tribal area, passing through Vagdai, Vapi, Manor, Vasai and reaching Malad at around 5pm & covering a distance of about 380km.

By the time I reached home, my legs had given away and pain was the only feeling I could get. Nevertheless, it had been such a good-n-awesome trek

To check out the trek photos please visit the Baglan trek pics folder in the photos section at www.hikesandtreks.com

Dinesh Nair
Keep Trekking....
www.hikesandtreks.com

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